Kamakura is very popular among Japanese people - therefore it will be crowded not only on weekends but also during weekdays. At least this was the impression of this blogger during a end of November friday. No wonder there are over 250 restaurants, boutiques, fancy cafes, Japanese-style sweet cafes, and stores selling souvenirs along famous Komachi dori 小町通り. From the east exit of Kamakura station you'll see a red Torii on your left, the entrance to this shopping street, which spreads to the north towards Hachiman-gu shrine. Due to the tourism boom you will not find very many old buldings in this street. A quite different scenery you find in the little town of Hase, just some kilometres west of Kamakura, easily reachable from Kamakura station by Enoden Railway or by bus. Altough there are popular attractions as Hasedera temple and the big Buddha image called Daibutsu, Hase offers more charm. Hase town was a popular villa place during the Meiji and the Taisho era. Many old buildings and houses have been preserved. Some are used as (Japanese style hotel) or as a playground for children, some are personal residences. In Hase you find a lively shop and restaurant scene.
Matcha Tiramisu at Momiji Chaya もみじ茶屋
Café Romano
Curry at Oxymoron
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine 鶴岡八幡宮: This shrine is believed to grant luck for career success, business prosperity and victory. Many feudal warlords had visited and prayed for victory on the battlefield. When you approach you’ll first see the Maiden (舞殿：Lower Worship Hall). 61 steps lead up to the red Main Shrine.
The Maiden in front, the Main Shrine (Hongū) upstairs
You can find three spiritual spots: First a giant ginkgo tree that has stood at the base of the stairway leading up to the Main Shrine for about 1,000 years. Second you’ll find Genji-ike pond (源氏池) on the right side. On an island stands Hata-age Benzaiten Shrine (旗上弁財天社). Behind is a pair of stones called Masako Stone 政子石. Here Minamoto Yoritomo, the founder and first shogun of the Kamakura government, is said to have prayed for his wife Masako’s easy childbirth. Third on the east side you find Shirahata-Jinja shrine (白幡神社), with a black-lacquered color contrasting the Main Shrine. There are two stones fixed as pedestals called Tsurukame Stones (鶴亀石) just before the shrine. “Tsuru” means crane, and “Kame” means turtle. It is said that when you wash this stone with water the patterns of a crane and turtle will be shown.
Masako Stone
Tsurukame stones
Shirahata-Jinja shrine (白幡神社)
Hase
Kōtoku-in with Daibutsu:
Hasedera 長谷寺: A temple of the Jodo sect, famous for its eleven-headed statue of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. The 9.18 meter tall, gilded wooden statue can be viewed in the temple's main building, the Kannon-do Hall. Opposite of the main hall stands the Amida-do Hall with the statue of Amida Buddha. Hasedera is built along the slope of a wooded hill. The temple's main buildings stand halfway up on a terrace which offers nice views of Kamakura. Along the stairs leading up the slope stands the Jizo-do Hall with hundreds of small statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva who helps the souls of deceased children to reach paradise. A pretty garden with ponds welcomes visitors who enter the temple grounds.
Statue of Kannon
Statues of the Jizo Bodhisattva
About 10 minutes walk from Hasedera Temple, there is a old western style house in the forest. It is Kamakura Museum of Literature 鎌倉文学館. The museum displays the documents and references of literary people such as Yasunari Kawabata, Jiro Osaragi, Ton Satomi, Hideo Kobayashi, Soseki Natsume, Toson Shimazaki, Ryunosuke Akutagawa, Osamu Dazai and more in relationship with Kamakura. The museum is also known for its beautiful rose garden. During two times of the year the roses are in full bloom: between the middle of May to the middle June and between the middle of October to the middle of November.
On the way to Kamakura Museum of the Literature from the center of Hase town you pass Amanawa Shinmei Jinja Shrine 甘縄神明神社, the oldest shrine in Kamakura (founded in 710).
Walking through Hase town towards the sea you will arrive at the wide and long Yuigahama Beach 由比ヶ浜海岸.
Zeniarai Benten Shrine 銭洗弁財天宇賀福神社: The formal name is Zeniarai Benzaiten Ugafuku Shrine, but it is usually called Zeniarai Benten. There is a legend: If you wash your money in the spring water there, it will multiply. After passing through a tunnel at the entrance you will find a temizusha (手水舎) on your right. Before worshipping wash your hands and rinse your mouth to purify yourself here. After worshipping at the shrine you can enter a cave, where you can wash your money. Read here, what you should do with the money afterwards.
Hokokuji 報国寺 temple with Zen garden and bamboo grove: You’ll need to pay 200 yen to see Houkokuji Temple’s highlight, the bamboo garden. And if you like to drink Matcha tea on the terrace with the tranquil view of the garden, you should buy the 500-yen-ticket as well.
Kaidanji temple:
Engakuji temple 円覚寺: When you enter this Zen temple you encounter Sanmon main gate, which dates from 1783. In the temple's main hall, the Butsuden, you find a wooden statue of the Shaka Buddha. Further into the temple grounds you arrive at the Shariden hall, where a tooth of Buddha is enshrined. On a hill next to a teahouse stands a large bell (ogane). Engakuji is a popular spot for autumn colors.
Sanmon Main gate
Shariden
Butsunichi-an, the the burial site of Hōjō Tokimune
Kencho-ji 建長寺: The oldest Zen temple in Kamakura stretches from the entrance gate at the bottom of the valley into the forested hills behind. After passing the Sanmon main gate you will see Bonsho, the temple bell. The first temple hall afterwards is the Butsuden (Buddha Hall) with a statue of the Jizo Bodhisattva. Behind stands the Hatto (Dharma Hall), the largest wooden temple building in eastern Japan. It houses a statue of Kannon and has a dragon painted on its ceiling. Kenchoji's main hall is the Hojos. The garden behind the Hojo was designed by Zen master Muso Kokushi. If you follow the path and stairways for another 15-20 minutes into the hills behind Kenchoji's main grounds you will arrive at the Hansobo shrine. There you will find a small observation deck from which Mount Fuji can be seen on days with good weather. If you climb further, you will reach a second observation deck with fine views over the entire temple grounds and the city of Kamakura. From here starts the Tenen hiking trail, which leads to Zuisenji Temple.
Zen Garden behind the Hojo (Main Hall)
Butsuden (Buddha Hall)
Inside the Hatto (Dharma Hall)
Yuigahama Beach 由比ヶ浜海岸:
Meigetsu-in temple:
Kamakura Kondo 鎌倉和惣菜近藤: Japanese restaurant
Kamejikan Guesthouse 亀時間: An old house has been preserved an turned into a guesthouse. You will find here a host, who has travelled a lot, and an international mix of guests. The guesthouse helds events on weekends such as a pop up café and bar that serves healthy food and drinks. Read more.
Trains and buses in Kamakura:
See Transportation on Kamakura Visitor's Guide.
For local buses see Enoden Bus
and see Keikyu Bus route search.
Kamakura Station Map with bus platforms:
Bus plattform 1: To Hasedera, Kotokuin (Ddaibutsu), final station: Fujisawa Sta., Kikyoyama. Timetable
Bus platform 1: To Hasekannon. Timetable
Bus platform 1: To Daibutsumae. Timetable
Bus platform 2: To ofuna. Timetable
Bus platform 2: To Kamakura Hachimangumae Timetable
Bus 2: To Tsurugaokahachimangu, Kenchoji, Kitakamakura. Final station: Ofuna Sta., Kamiooka Sta., Hongodai Sta. And to Hasedera, Yuigahama, Inamuragasaki, Final station: Shichirigahama. Timetable, Timetable
Bus 3: To Nagoe, Choshoji; final station Shin-Zushi Sta., Midorigaoka Iriguchi; and Enoshima-Kamakura Downtown Regular Sightseeing Bus
Bus 4: To Tsurugaokahachimangu, Egaratenjinjn, Kamakuragu; final station Daitonomiya
Bus 5: To Tsurugaokahachimangu, Jomyoji; final station: Kamakurareien Shomenmae Tachiarai, Kanazawa-Hakkei Sta., Hairando (round)
Bus 6: To Hasedera, Kotokuin (Daibutsu); final station: Daibutsumae, Kajiwara, Kamakurayama, Suwagaya, Enoshima, Ofuna Sta.
Bus 7: To Kuhonji (circular route); final station: Kuhonji (round); and to Kuhonji, Zaimokuza, Komyoji, final station: Shin-Zushi Sta., Kotsubo
Enoshima:
Read more:
19 Unmissable Kamakura Restaurants
Kamakura’s Trail of Treasures
Ghostly footprints of the ‘modern girl’ along Kamakura’s coastline
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